Thursday, December 31, 2009

CURBSIDE LANDSCAPING

This article refers to the narrow strip of lawn area about 4’ wide that runs between the sidewalk and curbside in many neighborhoods.   First of all, this is public easement territory, but homeowners are expected to maintain it. To try to keep St. Augustine, or other problematic turf grasses green and looking well along this public walkway requires watering and fertilizing. There is no watering system (automated or manual) that can water this narrow strip without wasteful runoff into the gutter and eventually into our creeks and lakes. Add to this pesticides and chemical fertilizers applied to maintain a good looking lawn area in this narrow strip which runs off along with the wasted water and pollutes our natural waterways.  

There is an easy solution to this that provides attractive curb appeal and avoids environmental contamination and waste of limited water resources. It’s xeriscaping the nuisance strip, tearing out the turf grass and replacing it with 100 percent self sufficient plantings which can sustain themselves in any weather condition without supplemental watering, pesticides, or fertilizers. In place of lawn, packed decomposed granite, gravel, or hardwood mulch can keep weeds at bay. What a win-win situation!



If your homeowners association or authority doesn’t allow this, it’s time to hammer hard for change. Avery Ranch in NW Austin recently did just this – adopted a set of guidelines which permit approval of xeriscaping not only the nuisance strip area but for front yards as well. This doesn’t mean you can plant a “wildscape” or anything , anywhere, but is team effort between homeowners and the homeowners association to help keep Austin green and continue to get more environmentally friendly. The benefits to the homeowner is significant in cost savings, less maintenance, and living within the constraints of and respecting our central Texas environment.

Common sense should prevail when designing a curbside (often referred to as “nuisance strip”) landscape. Avoid dangerous plants with thorns, spines, or toxicity, choose only plants that are 2 feet or less for visual safety, only use hardscape elements (e.g. rocks, driftwood or other decor), that are less than 1ft tall, use only plants that are native or adaptive to the local environment, and avoid sprawling or rapidly growing plants to reduce maintenance. Choose plants that will provide year-round curb appeal (e.g. mix evergreen with perennials that go dormant in winter). Know your soil conditions (drainage and composition) along the strip as well and choose plants that are adaptable to them. Your “strip” landscaping should be compatible with your front yard landscape as well. Remember, what you create, you must maintain. Also there are City of Austin regulations to ensure public safety that need to be complied with regarding public access areas such as sidewalks.

Some suggested plants to consider which are evergreen, full sun, low water requirements, deer resistant, include: Sanolina (green and silver varieties), Pink skullcap, Hesperaloe (red yucca), Mexican feather grass, Bulbine, Blackfoot daisy, Calylophus, Creeping Rosemary, Bush or Creeping Germander, Dwarf Eleagnus pungens ‘Hosobo fukurin”, and evergreen sages (e.g. cherry sage). Certain soft leafed Yuccas may be used as well such as Yucca filamentosa. You start with evergreens and winter condition appeal, then expand into perennials which dieback or are dormant in winter but can be planted among evergreens to add to summer color. Be imaginative and seek out additional plants that meet the requirements. For example, we used a super dwarf crepe myrtle “Chickasaw” that never gets more than 2’ tall) as a foundation plant. It is deciduous so a supporting cast of evergreen plants are needed for winter appeal. There are many dwarf varieties of plants being introduced every year that might be suitable for this specific area of landscaping.

Beautifying the strip between the sidewalk and curbside benefits both the homeowner and your neighbors who will stroll down the sidewalk and have something much more beautiful than a carpet of grass and weeds to look at – in addition to setting an example of how we can be more environmentally responsible for the little pieces of turf we control.

Who knows what the initial designers of our neighborhoods with thinking when creating these nuisance strips, but we need to rethink and consider correcting that  lack of environmental  forsight.  We all can so something to our own piece of turf to make it environmentally better. If you agree, it's time to get digging!

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

MY MOST DREADED GARDEN PEST

Help! Some of my Agaves and Yuccas have rotted at the base and collapsed, only to find a mushy and decayed mess. What is causing this? 

It's an attack by the Agave Snout Weevil (Scyphophorus acupunctatus). The picture above shows the adult and the grubs which were embedded in a Yucca aloifolia plant and the damage they cause.

This is a nasty little creature, ½ to 1” long, black, wingless, with a typical weevil snout that bores holes into the base of more mature agave, yucca and other related plants with a base diameter of 2” or more.. Then, it introduces a bacteria which is necessary to cause rapid tissue decay in the plant to feed its white legless grub larvae at the same time it lays its eggs. Once hatched, the larvae feed on the rotting and bacterial rich inside tissue of the agave plant causing it to eventually collapse. It then pupates from larva to adult in the surrounding soil. If this pest is not discovered early on, there is little one can do to save the plant.

OK, now what you may need to do to prevent this nasty creature from destroying your Agave and Yucca plants is apply a systemic insecticide (liquid or granular form) that is effective on grubs. Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Insect Control, with the active ingredient imidacloprid (under the trademarked name Merit) has been used effectively. Recommended treatments should be in spring and once absorbed into the plant, should protect your plant for up to a year. Treating the surrounding is also necessary.  Other systemic insecticides can be used if they are recommended for treating grubs. Always follow the directions on the product labels. As much as I hate to use any chemical product, this unfortunately is the only effective way to combat the Agave Snout Weevil once discovered. Observation and immediate removal of infected plants and soil around them is also effective in combating this pest. Agaves grown in containers with sterile soil are much less susceptible as the weevil is soil borne during it’s development. This weevil is doing much damage to commercial Agave crops in Mexico (Tequila, Sisal), therefore is having an economic impact as well. Ironically, it is this grub that is often placed in the bottom of a bottle of Tequila.

Next time you enjoy a Margarita raise your glass and say "Curses to the Agave Weevil"

Friday, November 20, 2009

THE "DOWN TIME" GARDEN


Is the winter period the "ho hum" time of year for your garden?  Does your garden lack the interest that draws you to it during this time?   Well, let's change that image!


Plan for “all season” color, not just “seasonal”.
So much emphasis and effort is placed on our spring to fall garden. The winter garden gets overlooked and is usually unattractive. All season plants that are permanent, preplanned, and integrated into the overall garden design can change that.  Seasonal plants are temporary, and meant only for specific periodic plantings.  The winter season in Austin generally runs from December 1 thru March 31. We reside primarily in cold hardiness zone 8b (minimum coldest temperature ranging between 15 and 20, but a small area around Austin itself is in zone 9a (20-25 degrees). Although we rarely see temperatures that low, we must be prepared for that possibility. Plants must deal with subfreezing temps, ice, sleet,rapid temperature change and wet and cold combinations.

The Challenge
Central Texas native and adaptive plants are mostly deciduous/perennial Evergreens are a garden treasure in Central Texas, but limited. Winter color plants can be seasonal, or all season – cold hardy. Landscape areas should blend both evergreen with seasonal plants. Winter color can be from foliage or flowers –don’t overlook foliage. Foliage can be variegated white/yellow, green, blue/silver, & purple. Marginally hardy or semi-evergreens need protected micro-environments. Cool weather seasonal plants offer more color variety and bloom. Use colorful, eye catching hardscaping to add interest to winter garden Avoid container plantings except in very protected areas as roots freeze much faster than terrestrial plantings. Now let’s look at some plant choices…..

Good plants for off-season temporary garden color in FALL:

Sumac, Bradford Pear, Red Maple, and Crepe Myrtles -for foliage color.
Mums, Copper Canyon Daisy, Fall Aster, Mexican Mint Marigold, Philippine Violet - for flowering

Good plants for off-season temporary garden color in WINTER:

Cyclamen, Pansies, Snapdragons, Dianthus-for winter flowering
Flowering cabbages, kale, or colorful swiss chard for cool weather colorful foliage

Permanent Evergreens to Use
Colorful variegated cultivars of well known Evergreen plants, e.g.
Eleagnus pungens, cvs Maculata, Gilt Edge, Hosobo Fukurin
Abelia grandiflora cv. White Marvel or other variegated cultivars
Yucca filamentosa cvs Golden Sword, Variegata, Gilt Edge, Color Spot
Daniella tasmanica cv. Variegata
Viburnum tinus, cv. Bewleys Variegated
Myrtus communis cv. Variegata
Trachyspermum jasminoides cv. Variegata
Yucca rotundifolia cv. Margaritaville
Tulbaghia violaceae cv Variegata (Society Garlic)
Ophiopogon (Monkey Grass) –variegated, black, dwarf, etc.
Ligularia species and variegated cultivars

Colorful evergreen shrubs and cultivars (other than green)
Silver colored foliage, e.g.
Leucophyllum fruitecens 'silverado‘ (Texas Sage)
Teucrium fruiticans (Bush Germander)
Saphora secundifolia 'silver peso‘ (TX Mt. Laurel)
Yucca pallida (paleleaf yucca)
Dasyliron wheeleri -Wheeler’s Sotol
Silver leafed fan palms, e.g. Brahea armata, Serenoa repens (silver leaf form)

Purple colored foliage, e.g.
Loropetalum chinensis 'plum delight‘ –Chinese Fringe Flower
Deciduous winter color from berries/bark, e.g.
Ilex decidua (Possomhaw Holly) –persistent red berries
Lagestroemia indica cvs (esp. Natchez) –brown exfoliating bark

Green is a color too!!
Evergreen shrubs to consider:
Acca sellowiana (Pineapple Guava)
Michelia figo (Banana Shrub)
Fatsia japonica (for a tropical look)
Roses (earthkind varieties and minis)
Ilex vomitoria (Yaupon Holly) –weeping, upright, dwarf forms
Thuja occidentalis (Arborvitae) –one of few suitable conifers
Podocarpus microphylla (Japanese Yew) -comes in dwarf forms
Cold hardy small palms and cycads
Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) –fragrance, texture, etc.
Punica granatus cv nana (Dwarf Pomegranite) –semi-evergreen
Nandina domestica (only dwarf non-berry cultivars, e.g. San Gabriel)
Malpighia glabra (Barbados Cherry) –semi evergreen
Opuntia cactus –thornless
Saphora secundifolia –TX Mountain Laurel
Sanolina (comes in both green and silver varieties)

There are no winter flowering hardy evergreen shrubs/plants for our area that I’m aware of.

Hardscaping to add winter garden interest. e.g.
Natural materials, e.g Limestone Rocks and boulders, Cedar driftwood
Nostalgia items, e.g. old wagon wheel, garden tools, etc
Décor items, e.g. signs, art work, water features

Why let winter be your garden’s “down time” when it can be nearly as vibrant and enjoyable as the prime spring to fall gardening “prime time”. We are fortunate to not have severe winter conditions in Austin, but with some limitations, can enjoy year round color and visual interest in our gardens.  See our presentation (with plant pictures) on Winter Gardening at www.centraltexasgardening.info/wintercolor.pdf


Wednesday, October 28, 2009

GOTTA MAKE MORE PLANTS


Why propagate plants at home from cuttings?
 

- Saves money, especially for seasonal perennials or tender accent plants (e.g. over winter one parent plant and propagate many more from it next growing season) Examples are Impatiens, Coleus, Begonias, Acalypha, any tropical or tender herbaceous plants.

- Personal challenge and satisfaction of starting a new plant from scratch.

- Self insurance policy - to have a backup plant for a rare selection or plant that would be difficult to replace.

- Save space for over wintering - keep only a small rooted cutting rather than a large plant for next year.

- Have extra plants of unusual varieties for trading with others, e.g. at plant swaps. 

- Plant sales - a good way to make some extra money to support the purchase of new plants to try.

- It's the only way to get a desired plant when not available from local commercial sources.

- Plant cultivars can only be reproduced identically by this method.  It's cloning!
 


BUT…..the main reason to me is that it is just plain fun and so easy to do!!
Each growing season, I feel compelled to do a batch of cuttings from plants that I love to share with others. I even went back to the simplest, cheapest, and easiest method and had better results than ever. It’s simple. I bought a large opaque/clear storage box at Walmart for $10, drilled half inch holes in the top for air ventilation and bottom for drainage, placed 6 inches of paver/course sand, moistened the sand, put the lid on and created the ideal environment for rooting cuttings – moist but well drained and vent ilated! The “propagation box” was kept in a shaded but bright area to eliminate heat and light stress.

Cuttings should be  4 – 6 inches, cut below a node, stripped of half to 2/3rd of foliage, dipped in rooting hormone according to strength needed.  Herbaceous or soft cuttings generally require no rooting hormone assistance.  Semi-hardwood cuttings (that snap cleanly when broken) generally use a #1 (.1% active ingredient) or #2 (.3%) rooting hormone.  Hardwood and difficult to root cuttings are generally allowed to callous overwinter when dormant and use a #3 (.8%) strength hormone. Cuttings should be dipped in the hormone, shake off excess,  stuck in the sand and checked every week after two weeks have passed. They need to be placed firmly in the medium to ensure good contact with it. Cuttings require relatively warm conditions for root development.  Do not pot cuttings until a thick cluster of roots have formed and offer the new plant protection from stress until roots develop further.  The length of time required to root any plant varies depending on the specific plant.  Some are unbelievably easy rooting in a weeks time, while others take up to 6 months or longer. 

Other simple propagation methods that are easy and any gardener can do include division and ground layering. Division is simply dividing a clumped plant into several sections, each having the necessary roots attached and able to sustain the divided plant..  Bulbs can be divided by sectioning - another form of division.  Ground layering involves the wounding of a branch still attached to a parent plant and bending it into the ground, only separating it from the parent when roots have developed.  It is important to have the wounded area not exposed to light so the wounded meristem cells differentiate into roots and not branches.

This just is the tip of the iceberg in regard to the many and varied methods for propagating new plants.   You can learn more about propagating your own plants at http://www.centraltexasgardening.info/propag.htm   Another good reference site for how to propagate specific plants is the University of Florida's "Landscape Plant Propagation Information" at http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/lppi/  

So, having had the fun of propagating new plants creates another dilemma, what to do with them! That’s how you make new plant friends – share with others. Who knows - a valued shared plant may come back to you for re-propagation if you lose it in your garden.. 



Monday, October 19, 2009

Malaysia Art Stone & Bonsai Exhibition & Competition, Kuala Lumpur. 16 - 25/10/2009

Paparan gambar exibition & bonsai demonstration by local master Mohd Bohari Che Makhtar and master Robert Steven Indonesia